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Kitchen General The allure of old cookbooks: Casseroles and the human condition
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The allure of old cookbooks: Casseroles and the human condition
Modern cookbooks make me tired. I can leaf through half-a-dozen pages before the aesthetic headache sets in. But the other day I came across something entirely different.


CASSEROLES.  In the spring, I get cabin fever. Because "spring, the sweet spring, is the year's pleasant king. Then blooms each thing, the maids dance in a ring, Cold doth not sting, the pretty birds do sing," affects me as it affects other creatures: we want out.

Thus, for spring, I have prepared a special list of casseroles. ...A casserole gives leeway to individual creation, for there is no end to the little personal touches that can be applied to any recipe. A casserole does not tire, because no two casseroles are ever the same. And finally, because even a spring-struck housewife still has a conscience about her family, a casserole gives good, balanced nutrition and, just as important, is appetizing.

Here are my favorites, geared to various occasions. Some of the casseroles are grand for spring entertaining, when the nights are soft and scented. Others build muscle and bone. But they all have one thing in common: You can make them at your convenience and bake them as you rush indoors, flushed and windblown.



This is an entirely different relation to food and cooking: light, loving, practical. No one writes cookbooks like this anymore. No one thinks this way anymore. Why?
Books Discussed
Woman's Day Encyclopedia of Cookery (Complete 12 Volume Set) From 1966
The American (Norton Critical Edition)
by Henry James

In the first instance, almost no one teaches English like this. Where would it be used? In my old school, as I went there, they did say they were moving away from the style of English that succeeded this style in favour of clear and simple language, supposedly for clearer communication. That unadorned English lacks impact though. It is as if they want the bare bones and nothing else. I tend to disagree with your claim that no one thinks in this way anymore, I'm sure some do but they are rare and even then not all the time. I do write and express myself in that way and the effect can be loving and practical but it is not always light in it's consequences. One lady I knew said to me after a short time, "this is like a dream" and then some time after that said this is "too deep and intense", "please keep it short, sweet and light". Yet it was the latter in many ways. That is the issue of not always being able to control the effect of one's words upon another especially at a distance. But I agree, it is a total communication and people are not used to that. What is life without depth? I understand that in Shakespeare's time, people talked like in the plays. Can anyone here confirm that? How extraordinary that would sound today.
What a wonderful excerpt, Margaret. Part of the issue must be that no one feels the urgent necessity of food in the same way. How can this be? We don't think of cooking as a trade, a skill, something for the repertoire. She could be writing about window dressings or table displays, or for that matter planting flowers on the front lawn.

This cookbook assumes that the reader will be cooking regularly -- every night -- for a hungry family and that it is her duty to read up on nutrition and present good food in an attractive and palatable way. It's like a calculus textbook for teachers. The question of whether or not to cook doesn't even come up. Cooking is not the luxury it is now. Back to crafts -- back to working with our hands from time to time -- is this what the century needs?
Ever heard of Julia Child?
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